Fits Blodgett 901, 911 & 931 Size (inches) 20″x33-1/8″x1.5″ WE HAVE BAKING OVEN STONES TO FIT ANY MANUFACTURER OF PIZZA OVEN FROM BAKERS PRIDE, BLODGETT, MARSAL, GARLAND, MONTAGUE, BARI, ZESTO, PEERLESS, REVOLVING OVENS AND MUCH MORE! STONES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE FOR MOST CONVECTION OVENS, REVOLVING OVENS AND COUNTER TOP OVENS. ALL THE STONES ARE NSF CERTIFIED. FOR A QUOTE, PLEASE SEND THE MAKE AND MODEL # FOR YOUR OVEN, QUANTITY OF STONES AND BUSINESS SHIPPING ZIP CODE AND WE’LL GET YOU A QUOTE INCLUDING SHIPPING. ORDERS NORMALLY SHIP IN 2 BUSINESS DAYS. ALL STONES SHIP BY TRUCKING COMPANY AND ARE PROFESSIONALLY CRATED.
Please note pizza oven stones with come with baking/curing instructions with the stones on the process of how to bake/cure the new stones initially with a gradual increase of heat. It is very important to bake/cure the stones initially, Thank you. Please measure out your old stones you are replacing first! Confirm correct size before ordering. All our stones are custom made and are non-returnable.
Oven problems are fairly simple to diagnose. The most common complaints are:. The pilot won’t stay lit.
The oven won’t get up to temperature. The oven gets too hot. The oven does not cook evenly.
Problem number one is probably the most common. Usually it’s the that causes this problem. When lighting the pilot, if the thermocouple is not directly in the flame it can not get hot enough to allow it to open the safety valve. If it is directly in the flame and it won’t stay lit then the thermocouple is probably defective and needs to be replaced, Keep in mind that some safety valves have the thermocouple permanently attached so the entire valve must be replaced. If you’ve replaced the thermocouple and attempt to light the pilot and it still will not stay lit then the safety valve is defective. Remember to check the type of safety valve you have to get the correct replacement. For correct identification procedures When working on any type of gas equipment always remember to shut off the gas!
Number two is usually a problem. When you set the thermostat at a set temperature and it does not reach that point it may be one of two problems: 1.
The thermostat may be defective. The thermostat may be out of calibration. To check the calibration get a thermometer that you know is accurate. Put it in the oven and set the thermostat to 250º. Open the kick plate below the oven door and watch the burner flame, if it goes off before the oven reaches 250º you may be able to calibrate it. To calibrate a thermostat remove the knob and check to see what type of thermostat you have.
The thermostat is either a type with a round disk that has two screws holding it in place or it will have a D shaft with a small screw in the center of it. In either case only turn the disc or screw a fraction of a turn at a time and no more than a quarter turn either direction.
Continue to turn the disc or screw a fraction of a turn each time until you see the burner come back on. If you reach that quarter of a turn point and the burner does not come back on, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced. If the burner comes back on, watch the temperature of the oven and if it gets to within 5 or 10° of the preset temperature, you are good to go. It may take several tries to get it properly calibrated. If you still can not get it calibrated within the temperature range, you need to replace the thermostat. All thermostats are preset from the factory and should not require calibration when installed.
If you find that the new thermostat does require calibrating, follow the previous instructions. Number three is also a thermostat problem. Follow the same procedure to calibrate as you did for the oven not getting to temperature. Again, if you can’t get it to calibrate, replace it and the oven should heat to the correct temperature.
Number four is a common problem after a new thermostat has been installed. All the thermostats have a capillary tube with a bulb attached to the end of it. This is the part that senses the temperature in the oven. The bulb is attached to clips inside the oven. If the bulb is not put back in the same place, i.e.
It’s just stuck in the oven cavity and left hanging, then the thermostat will run “wild,” meaning the oven cooks unevenly. Remember to get that bulb back into those clips no matter how hard it may be. If your oven is running wild check and make sure the bulb is installed properly. Another reason for the oven running wild is that the thermostat is totally defective and in this case must be replaced. Hi Kevin, If you’re talking about replacing the FMRA or FMDA safety valve then you can get the replacement kit from Bakers Pride, part number L5008P for a cost of $900.00.
This kit includes a TSll safety valve,pilot assembly, thermocouple and a replacement front panel. Or if you want to part it out (less expensive) you need our parts as follows: $97.48 $36.65 $17.79 $83.16 $8.90 Now the TS11 body is 7/8″ shorter than an FMDA or FMEA body so you will have to add in a longer pipe nipple to make up that 7/8″. It is a pretty straight forward installation. There is one more thing you need to know. We have had issues with the capillary tube on the thermocouple overheating; that is what the insulation cover is for. Due to the heat factor you may have to go to your local hardware store and get additional hi heat insulation. I also understand that Bakers Pride and Blodgett have experienced the same issues.
If you need additional assistance we’d be happy to help! Just call 1-888-388-6372. Thank you for these very helpful and detialed instructions regaurding oven repair and common oven problems.
I see far too often oven problems that are often times unknown and unfortunately many do not have the knowledge to troubleshoot or fix these issues. I have found after reading this short article that oven repair can be quite simple and easy to fix with the right knowledge. Its crazy that the simplest items such as a thermostat calibration can be mean all the diference in keeping an oven in top operating shape.
Thank you for sharing this very useful oven repair info, I feel it will help many people solve their oven problems and get back to baking those delicious dishes. Thank you and awesome blog! I have 2 blodgett 961’s.I replaced everything,pilot burners,safety valves,gas valves,thermostats,I feel I’m having the same over heating problem others are having.I wrapped both cap tube wires w/ both wire cover 42-317 and high heat sheld covers from a local speed shop.the pilots still go out after about 30-40 min. After cooling down I can relight the pilots but they go out again,after 30-40 min any other suggetions.Is it possible to switch to fmda safety valves,My bari ovens have these and i never have a problem w/them,I’m at wits end any help would be welcomed,Thanks. Hey i have recently bought 2 blodgett 1060;s I have been having problems with my top oven every time i turn the gas down to 300 degrees the pilot goes out the next day it gives me problems starting up once i get it will stay working until i lower the heat at night and the same problem happens i have changed the pilot assembly three times and the gas valve once these ovens are from 2007 they are not old they always go out after a friday when its busy can you please help me its very frustrating!!! My mother has bp600 from the 80’s and they never have problems maybe once every 7 years i used to have 1997 bp600s with the new thermocouple system and i found myself buying thermocouples every 6 months that is why i bought blodgetts cause i was tired of fixing them please help. Hey Bob, The most common cause of this issue is airflow.
You need to make sure everything is clean in the burner compartment. These units will suck in air from around the door in the front, so it’s important to run a screwdriver under the door to dig out any debris that might be blocking the airflow. Also, you might check to see if the hood above the unit is pulling enough air up and out of the area which would induce better airflow in the unit. Of course, gas pressure can come into play, but with burners that large the more likely solution is airflow. Other possible causes:.
Low gas pressure. Incorrect orifice sizing.
Bad thermocouple If you have more questions, give us a call at 1-888-388-6372. – Tundra Team. Hey By replacing all parts I was referring to the 4 thermopiles I’ve went through and the pilot burner/orfice assembly. I haven’t changed any of the main controls. My ovens are 4 years old and are stacked on top of each other and very rarley I’m able to use both without one definately going out.
The tech that I use keeps saying I have a weak pilot flame but can’t seem to make it “torch like” he wants. We set a millivolt tester and notice as the oven heats up the millivolts decrease even though the thermopile sits partly over the burner flame. When the ovens do get to temp, the pilot light is a weak yellow flame thanks again Mass. Hey Mass, Has this been happening since you have had the ovens or did this problem just start happening? What size gas line is feeding the ovens?
Are they tied together. The reason I ask is if both units are tied together there may not be enough volume of gas to fire both units at the same time. You may have to increase the size of the gas hose feeding the units. Most units separately require a ¾” hose but together they may need at least a 1” hose. If this just started happening I would contact the manufacturer to find out if they have had any issues of this nature with any of their units.
If they have they may have a fix for it. Also has the water column been checked. It should be at about 10 inches of water column, if it is below that then you will have that problem of the pilots dropping to low flame. Hope this helps. Hey Joe, What is the brand name of your ovens? Does the igniter stay on or does it cycle on and off?
It may be that the gas solenoid valve is not opening (coil could be burnt out). To check it take a small screw driver and when you turn on the oven touch it to the top of the solenoid coil. If you can feel magnetism with the screw driver then the coil is okay but may mean the plunger in the solenoid is stuck closed. It could be your thermostat is defective.
To check if it is the thermostat remove one of the wires from the thermostat and touch it to the other wire on the thermostat. If the burner fires then you know for sure it is the thermostat. I have a Blodgett 999 double oven. The top oven is not functioning properly. I did read above posts and it seems it could be a thermostat issue. The safety valve has been replaced, as has the thermocouple which came with a heat shield. The oven struggled to get up to and hold 475f, the oven also turned itself completely off about every 15 minutes during a bake, yet when I turned the burner off the pilot stayed lit.
Additionally both ovens have had the orofices replaced, the top oven makes an audible rushing air sound when the burner valve is opened, the bottom oven does not make this sound. Thanks Kevin. Hey Kevin, I do not think you have a thermostat problem, it sounds as though it can’t reach temp because of it shutting down every 15 min. There has been a problem with those shutting down prematurely. The problem is the thermocouple over heats even with the heat shield.
To resolve this you may have to go to Home Depot and get your self a piece of insulation that is rated at 750 degrees and wrap the thermocouple cap tube with it (any of it that is exposed in the burner compartment). This Seems to remedy the problem. I’m not sure what the insulation is but the Home Depot people do. I’m not sure what is causing the rushing air noise. Could be the way the two units are piped. Meaning the top oven may be getting a little more gas flow than the bottom one. Hi, Having an issue with my bakers pride D-125 deck oven.
Was having an issue with pilot light staying lit. Converted the safety valve with the TS Safety valve listed above. The pilot lit would light and remain lit until the oven was fired up. The first time it remained lit for about an hour then the burners and pilot light would all go out. The pilot light would not relight until the oven cooled down. I have replaced the thermocouple and do have hi heat insulation the entire length. I replaced the thermostat and the gas regulator.
Each time I replaced something the same issues occurs. I have even replaced the safety valve again in case the valve was faulty.
Even with all these new parts the pilot light will remain lit as long as the oven is not turned on – when i do turn on oven the burners will fire up and the oven will start to heat – I even have flame control with the thermostat. I can even shut off the oven and the pilot light will remain lit. Its when i leave the oven running for more that 10mins the burners and pilot dies out. I am stumped and my plumber cannot figure out what the problem is.
I don’t not know what to try next or what i can even replace next since almost all parts have been replaced. Hi I have installed the insulation listed in your previous post about retrofitting the safety valve. I believe that this insulation is rated for 1000 degrees F (ordered from tundra Tundra No. I was wondering if you think i need additional insulation for the thermocouple. I have installed the insulation sleeve from the oven wall to the thermocouple holder, in other words the entire length of the copper tubing that is in the oven cavity. I have also ran the thermocouple as close the the outside as possible (close to the door and away from the main gas line) to reduce any direct heat transfer.
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Hey Thanks for the help. Sorry I haven’t got back to you. The gas lines are tied together. I believe they are 3/4 inch. Haven’t had my tech check the water column yet.
I did call Bakers Pride and spoke with Bob Petrie. He was somewhat helpful. He suggested I keep the thermopile wire as far away from the burner chamber as possible. Say’s I should run it along the door of the chamber.
That was his advice. So I have done that. Used both ovens last night with no issues.
Normally I don’t use 2 ovens. Never that busy, wish I was. Lol Hopefully that’s all it is. Seems too simple but I’ll take it.
My thermopile does go black and eventually flakes out where it attaches the to the thermocouple. No pilot leak I’m thinking maybe I should just wrap the thermopile with the insulation. Do you guys sell that or just go to home depot? Being in Canada, I hope they carry it. Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated Mass.
Hi Joe, You can continue using Tech Talk and you can also get from etundra.com two repair manuals. One of them for Gas Equipment Repair Tundra #36-501 and the other Electric Equipment Repair Tundra #36-502. They both get right down to the basics of restaurant equipment repair. I have to say most basic restaurant equipment is a lot easier to repair than residential equipment.
Of course if you run into a problem on any piece of equipment and you can’t find the answer in either of the books you can always refer back to Tech Talk on etundra’s blog The Back Burner we would be happy to help you out. Have a 12-yr-old wolf 6-burner with oven. A few weeks ago oven went out in the middle of service, so I re-lit the pilot and oven relit. Next day, it happened again but the pilot would not stay lit after holding 30 seconds (with oven off).
Changed out the thermocouple and it still would not stay lit. Changed out the safety valve and now I can light the pilot but only if i turn on the oven a little. Then, the pilot will stay lit until I turn on the oven. Once I turn on the oven, everything stays lit for a few minutes then everything goes out, burner and pilot. One thing, I can’t find the identical compression fitting, so too much gas was getting into the burner.
The flame was very high and yellow. I rigged the valve that I got from the valve company engineer who was trying to help me so that less gas would flow into the burner. That took care of the high yellow flame, but the burner and pilot still went out after a few minutes. Hi Shelly, It sounds as though you may have a defective thermostat. It is not allowing any gas flow through to the safety which in turn goes to the pilot. When you turn the thermostat on slightly it allows a flow of gas to the pilot and when you turn it up further it will allow the burner to light but then it is shutting down prematurely. That is a good sign that you will have to replace the thermostat.
You may have an FDO or BJWA type thermostat in that unit. You can identify it by going to etundra.com and enter either FDO or BJWA on the search bar and it will give you a picture of what the thermostat looks like. Hi Mike, If your pilot is staying lit your problem is not with the safety. Not knowing the model of your unit I am going to say that it has gas solenoid valves in it. The solenoid is controlled by the thermostat. When you turn on the thermostat it opens the solenoid allowing gas to flow to the burners.
It sounds as though it may be sticking because you mentioned that you get a little gas to the burner at times. To check it take a small screw driver and touch it to the top of the solenoid and turn on the thermostat. If the screw driver sticks to the solenoid then you have magnetism, which tells me the plunger in it is probably sticking not allowing gas flow. If there is little or no magnetism then it is time to replace the solenoid. If you do have magnetism and not getting gas flow you can either replace the solenoid or get a rebuild kit for it. Edil: Hi, the oven was purchased here in Puerto Rico it does not have any more info (po-24 Barco). Hi Edil, Ok Lets see if we can fix your problem.
As I said before the uneven cooking may be due to the thermostat bulb not hanging in the clips for it. The clips may be on the upper side of the oven or in the upper back, so check that out. Now as far as the unit shutting off when you open the door. I am assuming that the pilot is going out also.
If that is the case it could be caused by low gas pressure. It could be caused by a defective pressure regulator. Because it is a new unit you may need to have a service company come in and adjust the water column setting. The manuals that you got with your unit should indicate where the water column should be set, if it does not your service guy should know where to set it. You see when you light the pilot you may get enough flame to heat up the thermocouple enough to open the safety but when you turn on the thermostat that flame may drop due to low pressure when the burners ignite.
When you open the door there may be enough breeze into the chamber to extinguish the pilot flame thus shutting down your unit. I hope this helps. Bake a pie for me.
Hey Patrick, This is kind of a stumper, I have never run across this problem before. I first was thinking that you may have gotten a defective thermostat.
So I talked to tech support at American. They say that your gas pressure may be to high causing the burners to get to hot. The pressure at the manifold needs to be at 5″s of water colunm. Your local gas company can check that for you usually at no cost to you. They say that is about the only thing that could be causing this problem at this point. Hello Tundra, I’ve been having a problem for a couple of months now with a Baker’s Pride D-125 pizza oven.
Could be two separate problems, or just one and the same. It’s a 1980’s model having an FMEA safety valve w/ the attached thermocouple, and a gas lever(handle) in front of the oven to turn on/off the gas to the burners every morning/night. ———————– Two problems: a) the burners, and b) the pilot. Problem #1: While the pilot does stay lit all night long, when I try to turn on the burners in the morning(cold oven), sometimes the burners will not ignite and other times when they do ignite they’ll go off after about a minute. (Makes no difference if the oven or burner doors are kept closed or open). At this point I use a small flame torch on the thermocouple for about 4-5 seconds to get it glowing red hot, causing the burners to turn on immediately.
The burners now keep the thermocouple red the entire day, thus keeping my oven working all day long. At closing time I turn off the gas lever to the burners, and next morning I go thru the same process again. Note that on some mornings the burners will ignite normally(no flame torch), and stay on, without a problem. But on most mornings I go thru the process described above.
—————————— Problem #2: On a few occasions, after closing time, at some point during the night the pilot flame goes off. The next morning when I re-light it, it stays lit with no problem.
Btw, I already replaced the pilot assembly last month, but the problems mentioned above still continue. Any help in solving this matter would be greatly appreciated. Could someone please explain this mystery to me I have a D125 Bakers Pride oven, the older version with the thermocouple line attached to the safety valve. With a normal-sized pilot flame the thermocouple maintains a nice pinkish glow. I decided to increase the pilot orifice hole with a needle, creating a pilot flame that’s over twice as big and much stronger than the normal flame, thinking that the thermocouple should now be able to maintain a deep-red glow. Well guess what: now it doesn’t even turn a slight pink, never mind a deep-red glow. How is it possible that with a normal pilot flame the thermocouple maintains a nice pinkish glow, BUT with a more powerful pilot flame it does not glow at all (and thus not allowing the burners to turn on)??
Thanks for any responses. I recently purchased a pizza store and was doing some cleaning and improvements. I took out the very dirty vent screens attached to the Bakers Pride 452 and cleaned them thoroughly. I also installed a small exhaust fan in the wall that we only use for cross ventilation during business hours and when the back door is open. I noticed that my ovens were burning out at night time. We leave our ovens burning at 500 24 hours a day.
Either the top oven or the bottom or sometimes both would be cold in the morning. It was obvious they went out during the day. A pilot safety was replaced on the top oven and the pilot orifice was cleaned on both. All work done by a reputable commercial repair company. Five days later and the top one goes out again.
The previous owner told me she did not have a burn out in all the five years she owned it and the employees verified this. Even my third oven went out on at least one occassion. I believe it is an air issue as the likely hood of two going bad at the same time is just too big of a coincidence. Even after the safety/pilot assembly was replaced, lit and the burners burning and the door shut, two minutes later the whole thing was off. We had to keep the burner door open for the first 30 minutes after lighting the oven to keep it going constantly. Could it be my flue?
The exhaust vent I installed is louvered and even when closed allows a small amount of air in and is located within ten feet of the oven. Hi Guys, My partner and I have just taken over a pizza store and to our surprise just recently our ovens stopped working, I had the service guy come out and he was being a complete nut job about the situation saying we young kids shouldn’t have a business if we cant look after our ovens even though he serviced it only 6 months ago.
He replaced the fan as it wasn’t working and today come into our shop and notice our pizzas are burning. We have tried playing around with temps however, our bottom oven is perfect set on 275, we feel uncomfortable calling him again as he was so rude to us and we cant seem to find anyone else who does this kind of work. From reading all the above im guessing it could be the thermo but not 100% sure.
We have a Lincoln 1002 120/240 VL Please help guice us! I have an older Wolf 6 burner Commercial oven I think the model number is 6PS or 3PS – kind of hard to make out on the ID plate.
I have also been told that this might be a bakers oven. It was converted to propane from natural gas a few years ago. Recently I have noticed that the oven won’t get up to temp, it takes like, 3 hours to cook a small chicken! The pilot light is fine and stays lit but when I adjust the oven from 250 – 500 degrees the flame does not get any bigger. The top burners all work fine. If I don’t fix this by Thanksgiving I will be foraging in the Wilderness. I have an older Blodgett DFG-100 and it is trying hard to work like a champ!
However, the red warm up light that’s couple with the circuit that makes the gas flow into the main burner is intermittent- sometimes it comes on and heats up the oven, but the rest of the time, just a bit of gas flows next to the thermocouple and stays on for a while while it zaps and gets that one little front prong hot, but then the gas just dies. I would very much appreciate you all’s expert analysis of what needs to be replaced! Stuart Trusty.
I have a Wolf model CH-4-29-HB11 serial # 37867-1 I 86 The oven thermostat is not working. Please specify part numbers for replacement and your recommended method for testing thermocouple, as well as any other suggestions. The embossed identity plate includes the above information, says “PROP” in the “GAS” box, but the unit is installed and working fine hooked up to the city’s natural gas. How can I tell if it was converted to run on natural gas? Is there any reason not to continue using it, as the stove burners seem to burn a clean blue flame that provide plenty of heat, and the oven?
In the back of the oven there is an oblong hole that appears to be for venting, but it has been plugged. Is this a problem?
FYI there is a carbon monoxide detector near the unit that has never beeped. I have a single deck blodgett pizza oven that runs off of natural gas.
The oven was running fine, then after cutting it off over vacation the burners would not re-ignite. The pilot light stays lit and the thermostat has been replaced but the ovens burners still will not light. I noticed occasionally enough naturnal gas will seep through to light the burners just barely (there is just a very tiny blue flame that flickers on many of the tiny holes in the burners) The gas flow to the burners is definitely very weak. Since the pilot light stays lit I assume the thermocoupling is OK, and like I said I just has the thermostat replaced and sometimes when I turn the thermostat to the hottest setting sometimes enough gas makes it through the lines to barely light portions of the burners. Of course if I turn the thermostat all the was down that little bit of flame on the burners goes out.
Any idea what it may be? Greetings, and thanks Casy for your recommendation on the Blodgett DFG-100 to replace the thermocouple to fix the problem of the red light for the main gas line not coming on! NOW, that WORKED for maybe two months plus, day in and day out. Yet now, the problem REAPPEARS the light comes on for a second then turns off, then comes on again, and turns off or it doesn’t come on. For the very moment, it comes on and stays on like it should, but it soon it will show this problem again. Could the new thermocouple be defective?
Or is it something else, you think? Thanks much in advance!!
I did call, thank you, and your team referred me to Blodgett Tech Support which was very helpful and knowledgeable. The problem this time was the long 18″ shielded wire between the thermocouple / flame sensor and the circuit board. It was spiced, dirty, and when I cleaned it thoroughly with salt + vinegar and put it back, the problem went away. For anyone to come, there is a certain amount of microvolts that have to be measured to insure the main gas cutoff opens, and if the wire is in bad shape or shorted, it won’t have enough juice to cut the relay and light on. Regarding an Imperial Range IR-6, are the tstats operating the gas burner for typically +/- 25 Fselected temperature? Have complaint that will not reach selected temp, even with 10 min preheat. Tonight I observed, set to 500(max), after 10 min thermometer read 430-435 F.
The burner op looks like it doesn’t completely shut off gas, when dialing down the temp until it is completely off. Doubting a pressure issue, did not check, but there is a Blodgett oven next to it with no issues. My next thought is try tstat calibration.
Lee, It sounds like you don’t have enough gas flow to create the right size flame to reach temperature. I would start by taking apart the burner assembly and deep cleaning every orifice on the burner and the burner orifice. After that, try turning on one burner full blast on the top of the range.
Now that one is lit go ahead and light another while watching the flame on the first one. Did the flame on the first burner drop at all when you turned the second one on? If it did you might need a new gas regulator. Just be sure to order the correct size if it is.
Here’s the ¾” size: Feel free to give us a call at 1-888-388-6372 or for more information. – Paul Tundra Team. Hi Paul, thank you very much for your prompt response. I really do not have much information because the oven buy two weeks ago and when I realized a cake, I saw the fan does not rotate while is in slow cooking mode.
However the fan motor is listening on. Cook high or high cool fan rotates normally tightly. We think that could be the switch as you say but I see could be other factors. I know it will be best to follow your advice that I see a technician but at the moment it is not possible. We will try with the multimeter to go discarding. We want to be the switch!!
Where I can buy parts? Very grateful for your help and your time. Hi Paul, Ovens like yours usually have an electronic ignition system and wouldn’t use a thermocouple. Your best course of action would be to locate your model and serial number and call Vulcan directly and speak with their Technical Assistance folks.
Their number is 800-348-0251. They can walk you through troubleshooting the problem and provide you with the part numbers you’re going to need to solve your problem. Once you have that information you can check back on or give us a call at 1-888-388-6372. – Paul Tundra Team. Hi Sir, We are one of the service provider of bakers pride oven here in the Philippines. Our problem Sir is the oven won’t fire for one time ignition, it takes 2 to 3 times or more or it won’t fire anymore until such time that we can smell the gas odor. In that situation Sir we will turn off the switch of the oven then turn on again and do it so many times until such time that it will fire.
When that time comes we will remove the cover to see if the igniter had ignite, then base on our observation it function normally. Can I ask a help of what is the problem of this oven Sir?
Hi Bill, Try removing the thermostat from the unit, then turn it to off and try to blow through it. You shouldn’t be able to if it’s set to off. Now, while still trying to blow through it, slowly turn it on. If you can never blow through it then you need a new one. There is no high limit on those units. If your machine has a electronic thermostat then just disconnect the wires and hook up a conductivity tester to it and it should show the circuit open when off and closed when on. – Paul Tundra Team.
Aptio change logo utility. We have dual deck Baker’s Pride Y600 natural gas ovens that have been used everyday for over 10 years now, but the bottom oven doesn’t get used too often, except when it is very busy or there is a problem with the top oven like there is now. In the past year I’ve replaced the thermocouple and pilot light on the top oven, and it seemed to do the trick for the problems we were experiencing. Now the flames when turning it on don’t get very high, and the middle/front/center burner is barely lit, and the right side goes out and eventually back on. The pilot or flames never went totally out, but we could tell right away with the first order that the oven was not up to temp and just switched to using the bottom oven which is fine. I was thinking about replacing the thermostat but wanted to know if this sounds like the right fix.
'Formally Carbo Oven Repairs' Restaurant Equipment Repair Specializing in: Bakers Pride Pizza Oven Repair & Blodgett Pizza Oven Repair We are Garland & Vulcan Service Representatives NEVER PAY FOR A SERVICE CALL Queens -Brooklyn - Bronx - Staten Island (718) 288-4336 Nassau (516) 360-1010 Manhattan (212) 303-7666 New Jersey/Connecticut (201) 399-3223 Summer Discount Special $29.00 off Any Pizza Oven Repair Applies Only to the Following Manufacturers: BAKERS PRIDE, BLODGETT, BARI, MARSAL Offer Expires: October 1, 2018 We Accept All Major Credit Cards. About Us Pizza Oven Repairs has been providing pizza oven repairs in all five boroughs of New York City for more than 45 years.
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In addition, paying customers receive free service estimates. Much like many of our clients' businesses, we are family owned and operated, and customers appreciate our comfortable, mom-and-pop-type feeling, which is a far cry from the usual corporate hustle of the city. Our family used to own a pizzeria, and we always had to call people to have them come in and repair our ovens. We realized there was no reason we couldn't learn how to do the repairs ourselves, so that's exactly what we did. As a result, our business has flourished for the last 45 years. We are the number one Commercial oven repair company operating in New York.
Our is full of videos about how to make your best pizza using our products. We offer tips, tricks, techniques and recipes.
So take some time to browse our video library! Be sure to check out the for even more information on making pizza!. PRODUCT MANUALS Lose your manual? Need an electronic copy?
Download our available product owner manuals and important documents here. PC0600 / PC0601 Pizzeria Pronto Stovetop Pizza Oven PC6000 Pizzeria Pronto Outdoor Pizza Oven PC6000 Pizzeria Pronto Auxiliary Lighting Instructions PC6011 Pizza Oven Leg Kit PC6018 Natural Gas Conversion Kit PC6023 Pizza Oven Wok with Ring PC6024 Pizza Oven Wind Door PC6025 Pizza Oven Backstop PC6026 Pizza Oven Side Table PC6500 PizzaQue Portable Outdoor Pizza Oven PC7001 Pizza Kit for Kettle Grills Remember, the instruction manuals contain important information necessary for the proper assembly and safe use of our products.
Read and follow all warnings and instructions before assembling and using any of the products listed above. Keep a copy of the manual for future reference. PRODUCT USE Pizza Cone Set. Watch video on using Pizzacraft's Upside Down Pizza Set. Watch video on using Pizzacraft's Pizza Kit for Kettle Grills Use.
Assemble out of the box and place on the grill following the instructions in your manual. Light charcoal (20 minutes); use a charcoal starter for best results. Preheat for about 10 minutes. Open the bottom and top vents of the grill completely. Place the lid so that the top vent is toward the back of the kettle. (This should force airflow through the cooking area instead of up and out the front opening.) Use your pizza peel to slide an uncooked pizza onto the stone. Your pizza's cook time is determined by grill temperature and your desired doneness.
Use the peel to rotate your pizza halfway through cooking. When it is done, remove using the peel, slice, and serve. Pizza Oven Wok. Before using it for the first time, wash your wok with warm, soapy water to remove any residues left from manufacturing. Dry by placing over medium heat until the wok is completely dry, then increase the heat to high. Pour a few teaspoons of oil into the wok, and rub it throughout the inside using a spatula or a paper towel held with tongs. Once this coating has burned off, wipe the inside of the wok with a paper towel held with tongs.
Repeat this process until your paper towels have no visible residue on them. Please see included instruction manual for more details if necessary. Always preheat the wok before adding oil. Whenever you start cooking with your wok, heat it until it begins to smoke before adding oil to the pan. This will open up the pores in the metal, allowing the oil to close them so that the metal does not absorb water during cooking.
It also prevents food from sticking to the wok, and aids in producing the highly desirable “wok hei” which is the desired flavor that woks impart into your food. The first few times you use the wok, re-season it with one layer of seasoning before returning it to storage. Continue seasoning the wok after each use until the surface remains permanently dark, shiny and non-stick.
Check for a damages to the wok’s finish. Any time you look at your wok and see the seasoning start to fade, or if food starts sticking too much to the surface of the pan, re-season it.
Pizza Oven Wood Smoker. Wait for smoker to cool before emptying and washing. Pizza Screen. Spray screen with cooking oil before laying pizza dough on screen and assembling pizza directly on it. Place pizza screen directly onto preheated oven rack or onto a preheated grill. Pizza Steel.
Find the correct rack adjustment in your oven. Typically the best rack position for cooking pizza is the top rack, but this usually depends on your oven broiler. Pre-heat for at least 30 minutes on your oven's highest heat setting, typically 500°F to 550°F. Crepe Kit. Before using your crepe griddle for the first time, it should be properly seasoned.
To season the griddle, simply brush it with a thin coating of oil (safflower, sunflower, or flax seed oil preferably) and place it on the grill over medium-high flame. Heat the griddle for at least 30-40 minutes, turn off heat source, and allow the griddle to cool. Repeat this process once more before using it to cook crepes PRODUCT CARE Follow our recommendations on product care to extend the useful life of your Pizzacraft product.
PIZZA OVENS Pizzeria Pronto and PizzaQue. Allow oven to cool completely before cleaning. Remove the cordierite stone from the oven and clean by running under cool water and brushing away debris with a scrubber. Do not use soap. To clean the crumb tray, allow the oven to cool completely before removing the tray by loosening the thumb-screws on the bottom. Pizza Oven Leg Kit. Use a damp cloth to wipe down as needed and dry immediately.
Do not store outside unprotected. Take care not to scratch surfaces with any metal tools. Protect ovens, legs, and workstations with cover when not in use, if possible. Pizza Oven Covers. Wipe with a damp cloth and hang to dry. Do not machine wash or dry. Pizza Oven Wok.
Wait for wok to cool before washing. Use warm water and a brush (preferably bamboo) to clean. Do not use abrasive scrubbers or steel wool or it will remove the seasoned layer. Avoid chemical detergents and soap as they may remove the seasoning of your wok. Not dishwasher safe.
It’s better to cover the pan in boiling water for a few minutes than to scrub it with soap. Heat the wok on the stove to remove any excess moisture after cleaning. The only time you can use steel wool again is to clean the outside of the wok or if you see rust in the pan. If rust occurs, simply scrub it away with a steel wool pad, and re-season all over again.
It’s also a good idea to apply a thin coating of oil to the outside of the wok as well. Pizza Oven Wood Smoker. Do not use abrasive scrubbers. Dishwasher safe. PIZZA STONES Ceramic. This baking stone is very durable though caution should be exercised to avoid thermal shock, which may crack the stone.
Do not expose the stone to extreme temperature changes, such as placing the hot stone into cold water or placing a frozen pizza onto the hot stone. There is no need to soak the stone in water before use. To clean, scrape off excess food with a spatula. When the stone has cooled, run it under hot water while scrubbing with a brush. Do not use soap on the stone. Pizza stones are porous and will retain the soap.
The natural properties of the baking stone will cause it to darken and spot with age – do not attempt to remove this discoloration. Air-dry the stone and store inside the oven. Cordierite.
Cordierite baking stones are extremely durable and will not crack because of thermal shock. There is no need to soak the stone in water before use. To clean, scrape off any excess food with a spatula. When the stone has cooled, run it under hot water while scrubbing with a brush. Do not use soap on the stone. Pizza stones are porous and will retain the soap. The natural properties of the baking stone will cause it to darken and spot with age – do not attempt to remove this discoloration.
Air-dry the stone and store inside the oven. Glazed. See “Cordierite” above. Do not use metal tools with glazed stones, as you run the risk of scratching your glazed stone’s finish. Cast Iron.
Hand wash and dry immediately. Rub the pan with a light coat of vegetable oil after every use. Baking Steel. The Baking Steel comes pre-seasoned with oil.
You can build up the seasoning by repeating the process 2-3 times, brushing it with a light coating of oil, then bake the steel in a hot oven for an hour at 400° F. Once a good seasoning has developed, it will be much less likely to rust.Thoroughly dry the steel and store it in a dry environment indoors. Even well seasoned steel will eventually rust when placed in a humid environment.
Do not use soap to clean. Washing with soap will require the steel to be re-seasoned. Occasionally rub oil on steel to maintain seasoning.
PIZZA PEELS. To preserve and extend the useful life of the pizza peel, hand wash with a mild dishwashing soap, rinse, and dry immediately. Wood components should never be placed in a dishwasher. Do not use abrasive or metallic scrubbers. Periodically apply a small amount of mineral oil or other wood-safe oil to wood components to condition.
Wood pizza peels are not dishwasher safe. PIZZA TOOLS & ACCESSORIES Cast Iron Pans. Hand wash and dry immediately. Tested to comply with fcc standards 2.4 ghz. Rub the pan with a light coat of vegetable oil after every use. PRODUCT ASSEMBLY Pizzeria Pronto Outdoor Pizza Oven assembly video. PizzaQue Portable Pizza Oven assembly video.
Pizza Oven Leg Kit assembly video. PizzaQue Pizza Kit for Kettle Grills assembly video. Pizzeria Pronto Stovetop Pizza Oven assembly video. COMMON QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS My pizza is stuck to the pizza peel - what did I do wrong? Pizzas will stick for a few reasons.
The main two reasons would be not using enough flour or cornmeal, and taking too long to assemble and transfer the pizza to the oven. There are two ways to fix this:. Fold the assembled pizza in half, and add more flour or cornmeal underneath – repeat this process with both sides of the pizza. If you're using a metal pizza peel, place the peel in the oven for 1-1.5 minutes so the crust partially bakes. You should be able to slide it off the peel at this point. This technique will not work with a wooden peel and should not be attempted.
My pizza is stuck to the stone / steel - what did I do wrong? Sticking comes from the stone being too hot and crust starting to burn. I think I see mold on my pizza stone! Yes, pizza stones can mold, and yes, it’s usually due to being wet too long or having leftover food on it.
When you finish using your stone it's best to scrape off any stuck on bits. Run the stone in your oven at 550° for an hour or two. So long as you’ve wiped the mold off completely, this time in the oven will kill anything harmful on the stone.
Black spots are usually just blemishes, so no need to worry. I broke my pizza oven pizza stone!
Are available to replace damaged baking stones for the Pizzeria Pronto and PizzaQue.